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A white house with a covered porch, with pine straw beds curving along both sides of the front lawn

Ways to use pine straw

Ideas for pine straw around your house.

Straw does more for the front of a house than most of what you can buy by the load. Here is where to put it, what shape to give it, how deep to lay it, and how many bales each idea takes.

Where straw beats bark, and where it does not

Straw is not the right answer for every square foot of a yard. It is the right answer for most of them.

It earns its place

  • Ground that slopes

    The needles hook into each other and hold. Water runs over the mat instead of picking it up and carrying it to the bottom.

  • Under hedges and shrubs

    Straw tucks in under the low branches, where a shovel of rock never quite goes, and it covers the bare stems at the base.

  • Big beds in one sweep

    One material, one color, one texture across a whole front. That is what makes a yard look finished rather than patched.

  • Beds under pines

    Needles fall into the bed all year. In a straw bed they disappear. On rock they sit on top and have to be blown off.

Something else is better

  • A path you walk daily

    Feet push straw around and wear it thin in the middle. Gravel or stepping stones take that traffic better.

  • Under a downspout

    Water off a roof scours a hole in anything loose. A patch of rock at the splash point holds where straw will not.

  • One color all year

    Straw changes as it ages, and that is part of it. If you want the same exact shade every month, straw is the wrong material.

A deep bed of fresh pine straw along white siding, with a bed of red bark mulch across the grass behind it

The bed line does most of the work

People think they are looking at the straw. They are looking at the line where the straw stops and the grass starts.

Busy edge Hard to mow, never looks finished One long curve One pass with the mower
Same house, same straw, same money. The line is the whole difference.

Fewer lines, longer ones

One sweeping curve along the front of a house reads better than five small beds each doing their own thing.

Curve out, never in

Push the line out into the lawn around a tree or a corner. Beds that pinch inward look like something went wrong.

Mow the line, not around it

If a mower can follow the edge in one pass, the edge stays crisp. If it cannot, the line will creep by summer.

A wider bed is also less grass to mow. Push the line out a step and you cover the awkward strip nobody can mow properly. One bale covers about 80 square feet of it.

Rings around trees

A ring does two jobs. It keeps a mower and a string trimmer away from the bark, which is how a lot of young front yard trees get damaged. And it gives you something to look at out in the middle of the lawn.

Make it wider than feels necessary. A small ring around a big tree looks like a collar. Take it out toward the ends of the branches and it starts to look deliberate.

The one thing to get right is the middle. Straw heaped against the trunk holds damp on the bark and gives insects a covered way in. Flat and wide, with the trunk standing clear.

A ring about 6 ft across takes 1 bale. Most yards have several trees, and the counts add up towards the smallest order, $150 of straw.

Heaped on the trunk Flat, wide, trunk clear
A gap you could fit two fingers into is enough. The straw should stop before it touches bark.

Beds on a slope

This is where straw stops being a matter of taste. Bark chips are separate pieces sitting loose on the dirt, and a hard rain floats them to the bottom of the hill and out onto the driveway.

Pine needles are long, and they lie across each other. Raked out, they lock into a mat that behaves like one sheet rather than a thousand loose pieces. Water runs over the top and keeps going.

That is down to needle length, and longleaf is what comes off this truck. Longer needles interlock tighter, and they break down slower than the other straw sold in Georgia.

How the three kinds of straw differ
Rain
Crossed needles behave like one sheet. Loose pieces of bark never do.

Under hedges and along the foundation

The bed at the base of a house is the one most people give up on. It is shaded, the dirt is poor, and the bottom of every shrub is bare sticks.

Straw goes in under the skirt of the shrubs, where a wheelbarrow of rock never reaches. It covers the bare stems and the dirt, so the row looks like one solid green line above fresh copper straw.

Take the straw out past the hedge by a step, not right up to it. A narrow strip makes the shrubs look crowded. A wider band gives the row room to stand in.

Cut the hedge first, then lay the straw. The other way round puts every clipping into the new bed, and picking them out of fresh straw takes longer than the trimming did.

Hedge trimming, and how it is priced

Walks, drives and the strip along the grass

A concrete walk with grass running straight up to it looks like nobody finished. A band of straw down both sides gives the walk a border and makes a front door feel like somewhere you are meant to go.

Along a driveway the strip does a second job. The edge of a drive is where grass struggles and where a mower wheel keeps dropping off. Put a band of straw there and the problem goes away.

Keep the straw a little below the level of the concrete. Rake it flat to the edge instead of heaping it, and it stays in the bed instead of blowing across the walk.

Straw also joins two beds. Run a band between them and they become one bed, which usually looks better.

Copper, then gray

Fresh straw is copper, and it does not stay that way. Knowing how fast it fades tells you when to book.

Fresh A few months About a year It is composting the whole time it sits in the bed

Straw laid today is at its brightest for the first few weeks. It fades through the season and ends up gray. By then it has thinned out too, because it composts into the bed the whole time it sits there.

So book it around the date that matters. If the yard has to look its best for a party or a showing, lay the straw close to that day, not months ahead. If you only want the beds covered and the weeds held down, any time of year works.

Most beds need a fresh layer about once a year, when the old straw has grayed. If you want the copper back sooner, you can have a fresh layer any time.

What delivery and spreading covers

How deep to lay it

Aim for about two to four inches once it has settled, which is four or five inches raked out on the day.

Any thinner and weeds find the light through it. If you want it deeper than that, rake out about twice the depth you want to end up with, and expect it to take more bales.

Do not strip the old straw out first. It is still breaking down into the bed, and that is half of what it is doing there. The new layer goes straight on top, which is also why a bed that already has straw in it takes fewer bales than a bare one.

Loose, on the day Settled, weeks later Roughly half of what you laid
Fresh copper pine straw under clipped shrubs along a brick wall, raked to a clean line against the grass

What each idea comes to in bales

One round bale covers about 80 square feet once it is spread. Measure the bed in feet, multiply the length by the width, then divide by 80 and round up.

4 ft by 20 ft

One bed along the front of the house

1 bale

6 ft across

A ring around one tree

1 bale

3 ft by 60 ft

The whole front of an average house

3 bales

about 500 sq ft

Front beds and both sides

7 bales

$12.50 a bale, delivered and spread. Or $7.50 a bale delivered only. The smallest order is $150 of straw either way: 12 bales delivered and spread, or 20 bales delivered only. Inside a 30 minute drive of Glennville there is no charge for the trip. Past that it is a flat $150, paid once however many bales you order, whichever way you buy it.

A brick house with a porch, its clipped shrubs standing in a bed of pine straw

Things people ask

Is pine straw better than bark mulch?
Straw is the easier answer on a slope, or in a long bed you want looking the same all the way across. The needles knit together and rain runs over the top of them. Bark sits as loose pieces and travels with the water. On a path people walk daily, gravel beats both.
How deep should pine straw be?
Aim for about two to four inches once it has settled, which is four or five inches raked out on the day. For a deeper bed, start with about twice the depth you want to end up with.
Should the old straw come out first?
No. Leave it where it is and put the new layer on top. The old layer is still breaking down into the bed, which is half of what it is there for.
When is the best time of year to lay it?
Pines drop needles all year in Georgia, and the heaviest fall is in autumn, winter and early spring. That is when most beds get laid or freshened.
How often does a bed need doing again?
Pine straw composts into the bed as it sits, so it grays and loses its look within about a year. Longleaf lasts longer than the other kinds sold in Georgia. If you want the copper back sooner, you can have a fresh layer any time.
Can straw go right up against a tree trunk?
Keep it back off the bark. Run the ring out wide and flat instead of heaping it up in the middle, and leave the trunk itself clear.
How many bales does a ring around one tree take?
A ring about 6 ft across works out at 1 bale. Most yards have several trees, so rings add up quicker than people expect, towards the $150 of straw that is the smallest order.
Does pine straw go under hedges?
Yes. That is where it does the most good. It runs in under the skirt of the shrubs, covers the bare stems and the dirt, and carries on out to the line you want against the grass.
A row of clipped round shrubs along the front of a house, standing in a wide bed of pine straw

Say which beds you want done, and you get the price.

Call (912) 256-6051

Monday to Friday, not weekends, and about 2 days of notice is best. You can also send the details and get a call back.